Issue 14: A Bowl of Comfort

Posted by Alison Sickelka

A warming bowl of soup or stew is just what's needed when the temperature drops. Everyday Food's Chicken Gumbo makes a hearty and comforting meal, especially when served with crusty bread alongside or over rice.

The recipe was from the July/August 2004 issue and called for fresh okra, which wasn't available this month, so I substituted the frozen variety. I'd never worked with okra before (fresh or frozen), so I don't know if that altered the taste, but I wasn't the biggest fan of the vegetable. It wasn't crisp or overly flavorful. Is it because I used frozen? I'm thinking so. I'll have to try using fresh next time.

Don't get me wrong -- the soup had a lot of flavor from the sausage, onion, and chicken thighs -- my sister and I went back for seconds. I've also never cooked with chicken thighs before. They are delicious and are more affordable than the breasts. I plan to explore their uses further.

As good as this soup was the first time around, we ended up throwing out the leftovers, which is something I hate to do. I should have frozen the soup portions, as Caroline suggested in her "Freeze It" series. I had every intention of eating the rest at some point, but the week just got away from me, and then I worried it was past the safe reheating point.

It's also hard to make large amounts of food for a small group of people. I talked last week about cooking for one, and if you find yourself in that situation, check out the Washington Post article that Deb contributed to for even more ideas (I think you have to register to view it -- but it's free!).

This soup would be a great way to use up leftover Thanksgiving turkey -- just substitute thin strips of cooked turkey for the chicken thighs.

Next week, I am going to prepare the Roast Turkey with Sage from the November 2005 issue -- my very first turkey. Have any of you tried that recipe?

And let me know what you think of the stew!

Comments

[Becky]

I don't think it was the fact that you used frozen okra. Okra is just kind of squishy/slimy in general, even when you cook it when it's fresh.

[Dumpling rose]

I read your recipe with interest as it pretty well makes gumbo a breeze to make but I beg to differ in terms of what I have learned in making gumbo, both chicken and seafood. I learned how to make gumbo while living in New Orleans (I am from New York City). As much as your recipe makes gumbo look easy to cook, there are key steps to be aware of that truly affect the flavor and substance of this wonderful
"soup" when made from scratch. The roux - usually a combination of 1/2 C flour and 1/2 C oil (I use extra-virgin olive oil) - should be stirred constantly, almost 20 minutes, to get a deep nutty brown color as it determines the flavor of the gumbo. Yes, you have to stand at the stove and stir the roux continuously to get that deep brown color. As for the okra - fresh is a must because it adds flavor and is also a thickener for the soup. Don't even bother to make gumbo if you don't have fresh okra as frozen okra should not be considered as a substitute. You need to fry the okra to cook it sufficiently enough to get rid of the "ropiness" or as one reader commented, "squishiness." Of course, it does help if you are familiar with and like eating cooked - not frozen! - okra. The chicken stock is important for chicken gumbo and I make mine from scratch. Chicken pieces such as thighs, legs, breasts and wings are kept for frying and put into the gumbo later. For the stock, put the rest of the chicken pieces into about 2 quarts of water, bring to a boil, then simmer for about two hours to get a worthy stock. If you don't have andouille, polish sausage is okay but not turkey sausage or anything similar unless you're desperate. As far as I have learned, making gumbo takes a while - what with the prepping of vegetables and getting spices ready, making the chicken stock, cooking the roux, and then - having everything simmer for a few hours, even making it a day ahead - it is worth all that work and effort after you have that first taste of your home-made gumbo. Sorry, but even if I were in a hurry - and frankly, you cannot make a really good gumbo as far as I have been told - unless it reflects the quality of ingredients used and time spent in making it.

[Alison]

Hi Dumpling rose!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I love hearing about how to properly cook things (that's why I am currently in love with Martha's new book.) I will def. have to try the labor-intensive version sometime. I do think this gumbo hit the spot for what it was -- quick and easy and satisfying. I really want to make my own stock sometime, though!
Becky, thanks for stopping by. Do you have a fav. gumbo recipe?